Chain Repair
Everything chain repair covered all in one place.
Chain repair is a set of fundamental skills and techniques every goldsmith needs to master, but the structure and design of the chain dictate what needs to be done for a successful repair.
Clasp Replacement:
Clasps, or the mechanisms that allow you to open and close chains and bracelets, come in different styles and metals. The most common types include the spring ring clasp and the lobster clasp. Here’s a quick side by side comparison of the types of clasps you can get from a jeweler:
Spring ring clasp: A hollow little circle structure with a lever to push a wire in and out. While not the most durable type of clasp, it’s cost-effective and affordable to purchase. In addition, it looks fairly discreet and blends in well with subtle designs.
Lobster clasp: A sturdy clasp that looks like a lobster claw, this lever controls the bottom metal portion of the clasp to allow the chain in and out of the space. It’s more durable than a spring ring clasp, but it’s also more expensive.
Box clasp: A complicated clasp that is typically used for pearl necklaces or thicker necklaces due to its width and decorative design. Much more expensive than the other two clasps and requires more labor to install.
Toggle clasp: A simple decorative clasp consisting of a loop and a stick that goes through the loop to wedge itself up against the circular edge. While visually appealing and used for easy removal, its design makes it risky to wear as the clasp can be easily opened.
Jump Rings:
Jump rings are simply loops that can be used for bails, chain extensions, clasps, and charms. These jump rings are typically placed into a chain or at the end of a chain for closing purposes. The size of these rings vary in terms of millimeter diameter, so when you’re selecting jump rings make sure that you ask for the right size and material.
Jump rings typically come unsoldered, and while they’re still functional in this state they can be pulled apart at the seam with enough force. For extra security, request for the jump ring to be soldered shut.
Materials:
It’s important to understand that clasps and jump rings are not readily available in certain materials. If you’re looking for high karat items like 24k or platinum, jewelry components don’t typically come in these metals and may have to be specially ordered or manufactured for sourcing purposes.
